Originally featured here on tmrw Magazine.
Illustration by ***Charlotte Righton***
Hoodies are on the catwalk; models are wearing baggy sweatpants and pulling bucket hats down over their eyes. This is what 2018 looks like.
High fashion has adapted, interpreted and incorporated, from the streets and onto the catwalks. Developing from the hip-hop, punk, skate and surf youth scenes from the late ’70s, streetwear came about at a time where ‘do it yourself’ really was everything. It was cool and collected; it was baggy and breezy – and anybodycould do it.
Fast forward 40 years and this aesthetic is finding itself sitting pretty at the luxury end of the fashion spectrum. People are paying catwalk prices to look like they just walked out of the skate shop – and they don’t mind doing it. Supreme is emblazoned onto the chests of A-list celebs, models, and the cream of the crop in the fashion realm. Combining these two, juxtaposing aesthetics of high-end and low-brow designs has created this alternative platform that people are buying in to.
If there were a designer who particularly embodied this lucrative notion of blending high fashion and luxury with streetwear and basic graphics, it’s Gosha Rubchinskiy. The post-soviet inspired, Moscow-born designer has collaborated with the likes of Adidas and Vans, launched a brand – Paccbet – with best mate and pro-skater Tolia Titaev, and continues to bring a casual cool to the partnered luxury brands he works with. He brings together the fashion elite with the “gopniks” – a Russian term meaning “chavs” often used in when discussing him.
Gosha has always taken inspiration from skate and youth culture, pulling in a something creative and casual that people want and need. As of January 6, the Gosha x Burberry collection can be found in select stores and online. Originally previewed as part of Gosha’s SS18 menswear show in St. Petersburg, the items are “inspired by youth culture and the legacy of British football in Russia”. The collection sees a selection of hats, shirts, bombers and trenches, all plastered with the iconic Burberry check, but with a classic Gosha touch. Mixing football hooliganism with a touch of class, it forms a perfectly cohesive collection.
Seeing Burberry influenced by a post-soviet, streetwear touch shows similarities between the brands that may not have been originally apparent. Despite being at opposing ends of the price spectrum outside of their collaboration. Whether you’re into terrace culture or not, this collaboration is there to represent us all – Britain’s youth – in a way also old and new, and street and catwalk. I take my honey coloured check, duckbill hat (with ear flaps to ward off the Russian cold) off to it.